How much more? It really depends on the speaker and the amplifier. The former (which would be more simply described as continuous power) is calculated by playing a sine wave signal and measuring the average (root mean square) voltage and current that the amp can deliver without clipping (which is usually measured in terms of Total Harmonic Distortion, but can be seen on an oscilloscope as a flattening out of the curved tops and bottoms of a sine wave).Ī good amplifier can, of course, deliver more powerful, albeit brief, bursts of clean energy than its continuous power output rating without clipping, and good speakers can likewise handle such brief bursts. The power output of amplifiers is usually listed as RMS and Peak. Instead, it's an indicator of how much power a speaker can physically take without distorting or physically breaking (whether that be from fried voice coils, blown speakers, or cooked crossovers).Īn amplifier's rated wattage, by contrast, is calculated a little differently: by throwing numbers into a hat and pulling them out until one sounds impressive. But what does that mean when it comes to speakers? Despite conventional wisdom, it really isn't a good indicator of how loud a speaker will play. Wattage is a measure of electrical power described most simply as voltage (volts) times current (amps). Since wattage is the spec that most people look at first (and the only spec that some shoppers consider), we'll start there. With that out of the way, let's discuss some of the common terms listed in the specifications for most amps and loudspeakers, and what those specs mean when shopping for components that play well together. Still, even a simple discussion of the relationship between speakers and amps can get a bit mathy so, if you're merely looking for a cheat sheet to help you find a new amp for your favorite speakers (or vice versa), you can skip straight to the conclusion. To keep things simple, we'll mostly be focusing on the characteristics of your typical solid-state amplifier and ignoring things like OTL (output transformerless) tube amps. The goal here isn't to write the definitive treatise on the subject, but rather to give budding audio enthusiasts a foundation of knowledge on which to build. As such, it contains a number of simplifications, many of them bordering on grossness. Nine Questions to Consider Before You Hire a Custom AV Installer at īut first, a caveat: this article is intended as a quick primer for beginners.Tips For Building a Great Portable Home Theater at.Five Ideas on How to Go Big on a Small Budget or in a Small Room at.To understand why, we need to take a look at what those terms mean. As such, you might think it would be reasonably simple to match a speaker with an appropriate amplifier: make sure the numbers match, and you're in good shape, right? Well, sorta yes and sorta no. But if speakers and amps were a Facebook couple, there's no doubt that their relationship status would be "It's Complicated."ĭespite being quite dissimilar devices (one being an electrical device designed to increase the amplitude of a signal from a preamplifier or preamp stage the other being a mechanical device designed to convert that electrical signal into acoustical energy), the performance characteristics and capabilities of both loudspeakers and power amplifiers are described using many of the same words: primarily, watts (both RMS and peak) and impedance (usually denoted as Ω, or ohms). After all, you can't have one without the other, assuming you actually want to listen to your music and movies in an actual room. Two devices that go together "like a horse and carriage," as the Sultan of Swoon would have said.
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There is some syntax to worry about though.For Windows PowerPoint compatible (insertable) video file, use:įfmpeg -r 10 -b 3000k -i yourmovietitle.%04d.bmp yourmovietitle.wmv.When in the correct folder you will type:įfmpeg -r 10 -b 3000k -i yourmovietitle.%04d.bmp yourmovietitle.mp4.(if it is not in the correct folder hit cd _) That folder should be where you set your working directory for your movie. Make sure that you are in the correct folder in your command prompt.When the render is complete it may ask you to specify a new path, say no. (Depending which render you are using this process can take an hour or longer). NOTE: Movies using trajectories cannot have their durations altered. (A good starting time is 5 to 10 seconds). Change your movie duration from 0 to whatever you want it to be.For faster rendering, you would choose /tmp, because files are saved on the local disk of your computer instead of over lab network to savor. (This is where your movie file will be placed after the rendering has completed). Make sure to Un-Check the delete image files Select your Renderer (Internal Tachyon gives you a much clearer video).From the VMD main click Extensions then Visualization then Movie Maker.When setting or changing your working directory or destination folder in the command prompt make sure that if there is a space in your file name, that you put the whole thing in quotation marks.Įxample (incorect way): cd c:\Users\Madison Block\VMD_movieĮxample (the right way): cd “c:\User\Madison Block\VMD_movie” I didn't know that the Autocraft batteries at Advance had a prorated warranty on top of the 3 years. It had been at the body shop for 6 weeks and they flooded it at some point - that was the last trip it was going to make anyway. I just replaced the OEM battery in my 9 year old RX8. Buy the cheap battery at Advance and get the 84mo prorated warranty - 3 years no questions asked is nice but essentially getting a guaranteed discount on future replacement costs is nicer (unless you can swing a blemished unit even cheaper). Is AGM that big of a deal? How much importance should I place on CCA as long as it meets or exceeds that of the OEM battery? Should any of these brands (Optima, Autocraft, Duralast, Rayovac) be avoided?ĭon't bother. I haven't heard much about Rayovac automotive batteries and don't know what to think of them. My other option is to go to Batteries Plus and get a Rayovac lead-acid battery for $100 that has 850 CCA and a 3 year warranty. Autozone has a Duralast Gold that is a similarly priced lead-acid battery but also has an Duralast Platinum Absorbed Glass Mat battery for $144 that has 750 CCA and also has a 3 year warranty. As far as I can tell the Autocraft Gold ($100) has 800 CCA and is the best that I can get from Advance Auto and is a standard lead-acid battery with a 3 year warranty. I found that a 78 group size should also work and a lot of people switch to those because they're cheaper, easier to find, and all of those options have higher cold-cranking amps. The batteries from Autozone and Advance Auto Parts are both about $180 for the proper 101 group size replacement. Are $200 Optima batteries worth the price for a daily driver? Yeah it has 800 cold-cranking amps (OEM battery is 650 CCA) and is highly vibration resistant but is it overkill? The battery in my wife's SRX went out over the weekend and needs replacing. * Three points angle, four points angle, arbitrary line, closed polygon, polyline and perpendicular line only. 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